Pau Hana Patrol: Tiki’s teases taste buds

Tiki's Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail is pretty, even without a traditional cocktail glass, and makes for good pau hana pupu at Tiki's Grill & Bar. —John Berger / jberger@starbulletin.com

It occurred to me as I was enjoying a late afternoon on the lanai at Tiki’s Grill & Bar — tikis of various sizes and shapes on one side, a beautiful view of the ocean on the other — that there are times when that old saying, “You get what you pay for,” means exactly that. The $5 “Happy Hour” Mai Tai that I’d started out with wasn’t bad. I’d never been more aware of the ice cubes that are part of the basic recipe, but by the time I finished it there was no doubt that the deceptively innocuous drink contained a significant amount of alcohol.

But then — strictly in the interests of Pau Hana Patrol research — I ordered a 1944 Mai Tai ($9) from the Nuevo Classics menu.

The presentation was the same –served in a coconut shell cup, and garnished with a wedge of lime, slice of pineapple and a maraschino cherry. The impact wasn’t. There was more substance to this one, a sense that the concoction was thicker, even allowing for all the ice. The rums were more assertive, and the flavors of fruit juice and orange curacao were stronger. From the first sip to the last, there was no question that this was a drink with a good bit of alcohol. When I was finished, I knew that the time for testing adult drinks was over and I’d be drinking water or some other “all-ages beverage” for the rest of the afternoon.

TIKI’S GRILL & BAR 2570 Kalakaua Ave. (second floor, ResortQuest Waikiki Beach Hotel) Happy hour: 2 to 5 p.m. daily » $2.50 selected draft beers » $3 Sex on the Beach and rum and coke (ask server for daily specials) » $5 Mai Tai, margarita on the rocks, Blue Hawaii on the rocks Taco Tuesday: 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesdays » $2 tacos (cash only, while supplies last) » Mega Mango Mojitos ($10, regular $12) » Tiki’s Cold Buster ($5, regular $7) » Top Shelf Margaritas ($7.50, regular $9) Note: Validated valet parking is free; enter from Ohua Street

Tiki’s has no “Happy Hour” food discounts, a fact that bargain hunters should keep in mind, but the pupu menu available at the open-air bar offers an impressive range of selections — ahi sashimi ($14), ahi poke ($12), steamed clams, baby back ribs ($10) and crispy mochiko chicken ($9) are a few examples. I’ve learned that a solo “patroller” shouldn’t commit to things served in large portions, so I regretfully passed up on the half-pound Grand Tiki Burger with fries ($12), the Kalua Pig Nachos ($14) and the Kalua Pig Quesadilla ($12) in favor of three other choices.

The Tender Beef Skewers ($14), a plate of four, proved an excellent choice. The beef was flavorful, the slices of red and green peppers crisp and tangy, and the chunks of onion tart but not too strong.

Tiki’s Famous Coconut Shrimp ($13), large and crunchy, rolled in coconut and served with sweet chili sauce, was beautifully presented. Chopped greens are often used simply to add a bit more height to dishes. I sampled the “Asian slaw” under the shrimp and found the sharp taste of ginger a nice counterpoint to the sauce.

The Jumbo Shrimp Cocktail ($12) isn’t served in a giant cocktail glass but the artistry of the presentation — four large shrimp served with two choices of dipping sauce and colorfully garnished — made the glass unnecessary. The shrimp were large, and the sauces — a wasabi-accented cocktail sauce and a dark sauce — complemented them nicely.

The "Happy Hour" Mai Tai, $5, will put patrons in the best of moods. —John Berger / jberger@starbulletin.com

On Tuesdays, Tiki’s Happy Hour folds into Taco Tuesdays, with $2 tacos available “while supplies last,” payment by cash only. Be there promptly if you want your tacos served in a hard shell. Those ran out in 20 minutes on the Tuesday I visited, and from that point on they were served in soft purple wraps. Red cabbage along with cheese and ground meat as taco filler? Well, why not? (See my observation at top.)

The Taco Tuesday drink specials sounded tempting, but it had been a long day and I had a long drive through rush hour traffic ahead of me. Consider it unfinished business for the future.

Chef Ronnie Nasuti Changes Courses
At Tiki’s Bar and Grill

While leaving the Executive Chef position of the reigning Hale-Aina Awards Restaurant of the Year might not seem like an obvious career move for a brilliant chef, it is exactly what Chef Ronnie Nasuti has done. After ten years of guiding the flagship Roy’s in Hawaii Kai to a multitude of awards and praises, Chef Nasuti will now bring his knowledge and culinary passion to Tiki’s Grill and Bar.

Pan Seared Opah over Yukon Gold Potato Gnocchi and a sautee of spinach, macadamia nuts, and raisins. Finished with a Carrot-Citrus Beurre Blanc.

Chef Nasuti has a sort of panache that is quite endearing for a man of his talents. His down-to-earth mentality and matter-of-fact sensibility give you the idea that he really loves what he does. Taking the Executive Chef position at Tiki’s is a whole new challenge that he has met head on with the goal of, “getting locals to come back to Waikiki.” With the open-air patio, breath-taking views of the Waikiki sunset, and an evolution of the menu that has Chef Nasuti’s stamp on it, it would seem that they are headed in the right direction.

However, getting locals back to Waikiki is no easy task. This is why Chef Nasuti is making changes such as sourcing local produce and meat, which is something he believes locals place value in. The local-organic and farm-to-table movements are, “something every young chef has been taught over the last twenty years.” Chef Nasuti also explained to us that “buying local is an experience,” that connects people to each other and to the land.

Seared Coconut Scallops accompanied by Nalo Baby Bok Choy and a reduction of Moloka’i Sweet Potato.

He further delved into his culinary philosophy by detailing the importance of teaching your children “how to make something from scratch…I taught my kid how to make meatballs, like my father taught me. Nowadays, in the current economy when two parents work, Old World values don’t have to be thrown out the window.”

With big hopes, a new menu, and an iron will, Chef Nasuti will lead Tiki’s Grill & Bar into a new year that is looking brighter and brighter by the day.

tikisgrill.com

Story by: Keola Warren
Photos by: Malie Moran

 

Former Roy’s Hawaii Kai Executive Chef of 10 Years to Revamp Tiki’s Grill & Bar Menu

Ronnie Nasuti

Well-respected culinary star Ronnie Nasuti has joined Tiki’s Grill & Bar in Waikiki as its new Executive Chef (November 6). Since he moved to Hawaii 21 years ago, he has cooked at many of the state’s best restaurants. For 10 years, Nasuti served as the Executive Chef of Roy’s Restaurant in Hawaii Kai. Prior to this, he helped open Roy’s Poipu on Kauai, and worked at Chez Michel’s and Roy’s Park Bistro in Waikiki. He also worked in the kitchen of Kincaid’s.

“We’re so excited to have someone of Ronnie’s talent revamp our lunch, dinner, late night and brunch menus and take us from good to great,” said Tiki’s Grill & Bar owner and general manager Bill Tobin. “Ronnie has the skills to take us to another level. Roy’s just won the Hale Aina awards for the past two years and they give credit to Ronnie for the honor. I’ve known him for 15 years and he is one of the hardest working chefs and he consistently delivers the highest quality,” Tobin continued. “You can tell he loves what he does.”

“Bill just made me an offer I couldn’t refuse,” said Nasuti. “I enjoyed working at Roy’s and learned so much from everyone there. I’m excited to create food that local diners enjoy and would give them a reason to return to Tiki’s. Give me a couple of months and I’ll want everyone to try the new menu. I’m committed to cooking with locally grown produce and I’m looking at sourcing as much as possible locally. There are many popular dishes that need to remain, but Bill is letting me use all my creativity here at Tiki’s.”

The 41-year-old Nasuti was born in Franklin, Massachusetts into an Italian-American family and knew from age 13 that he wanted to be a chef. He studied culinary arts and apprenticed in Massachusetts for the organization Les Dames D’escoffier Society, before working in restaurants in Copley Place Hotel in Boston and then moving to Hawaii after a fellow chef recommended it.

The retro South Pacific-style Tiki’s Grill & Bar opened in October 2002 and was popular from the start. Located on the second floor of the ASTON Waikiki Beach Hotel and with breathtaking views of Waikiki Beach and its spectacular sunsets. The 272-seat restaurant serves lunch, dinner, a late night menu and weekend brunches.

Tiki’s Grill & Bar is located at 2570 Kalakaua Avenue. Free validated valet parking is available. For more information, visit www.tikisgrill.com or call (808) 923-TIKI (8454).